Surreal reality: The Pyramids at Gize, guarded by The Great Sphinx. We stood in awe with other tourists marveling at the history, grandeur and largeness of the pyramids. Ancient and spiritual. Below, at Sakkarah, down the dusty road of palms and fields. I like these memory photos, taken with my trusty photo point and shoot Canon.
Cairo. Mindboggling and mindbending. Ancient city, modern megalopolis. Incredibly crowded, hectic, some 20 million people, most selling something and insisting you buy from them (or so it seems), along with millions of cars racing in and out of lanes that don't exist, horns blaring constantly for no reason except to say "make way."
Gridlock is the order of the day on the road, and we get a good taste of it right off the bat when we taxied to the pyramids in the morning. It's even worse later in the day when we try to get to a park and restaurant, visions of the setting sun in the desert against darkening palms filling our heads. But no beautiful sunset that day! We got no further than a few blocks after more than an hour of creeping and honking; night fell, and we decided to get out (yes, in the middle of traffic) and take our chances. We were in downtown Cairo, ablaze with shops, restaurants and street vendors, and not far from our hostel, Egyptian Nights, which is right across the street from the Egyptian Museum. Well "right across the street" is not exactly the right image, because we're talking about an 8-lane highway, two-way traffic, barricades on both sides of the street, with no place to cross safely. You can do like the Egyptians do, which is close your eyes and step out into the traffic, or you can wait a long time and hope for a bit of a break in the flow of traffic, but not much.
We also learn quickly that there is no "prix fixe" menu for anything you want or need: pretty much everything is open for negotiation (Jud calls it "haggling"). This includes cab rides, tickets, getting to the pyramids, getting around the pyramids, getting next to the pyramids, and touching the pyramids. Also taking photos of turbaned men on colorfully decorated camels against the backdrop of the pyramids, for that sense of desert mirage and authenticity. Mindboggling.
Enshrouded in a purple- brown haze, Cairo is the desert, and even now, at the end of December, it's hot. Heat radiates down from the sun onto the sand, over the Nile, and up from the ground and the river. On our first day haze and smog cover the city, and an overcoat of brown velvet covers the trees, palms, bushes, and bougainvilla. I hardly recognized the bougainvilla in its brown dusting. The sun is as intense as the crowds, the traffic, and the culture of bargaining.
You cannot ask for anything, even the address of a restaurant, without being haggled, from the front desk of your hostel to the streets. Sometimes, well often, the haggling and "buy this" are annoying but sometimes it actually turns out okay. Like on our way home last night when we asked directions and a tall, handsome and friendly Egyptian said he was going that way and would walk us to our hostel, but stopped first at his "family perfume shop" along the way, and introduced us to Abdullah. Jud kind of rolled his eyes; I wondered, too, but we went with the flow, accepted some tea, and were treated to being adorned with beautiful scents. Our articulate accompaniest disappeared (no doubt to collect more customers), but Abdullah settled us in, and gently rubbed the scents on my wrists, my arms, my shoulder. It was lovely, and I happily ended up buying one of my favorites, the scent of Philosophe cologne from France, introduced to me several years ago by my niece Kaaren in Amsterdam. Ever doubtful after a day of "haggling," even Jud succumbed to the touch and the scents, and bought a richly textured cologne.
A nice way, you could even say "a very Egyptian way," to end a glorious day that began with a magnificent visit to the Pyramids of Gize(or Gizeh or Giza).
Oh my, the pyramids! Awesome! Simply awesome. More awesome to see than to imagine. The ancestry and the lineage, the sheer size and symmetry, the grandeur and mystery and symbolism. As awesome as when Heroditus of Greece first saw and described them.
The three pyramids of Gize outside of Cairo are among the biggest in the world, and the oldest, built around 2580 BCE. They include the tombs of Cheops (the largest), Chephren and Micerinus, pharoahs who lived like gods, and were believed to be god-kings. They spared no expense in building their tombs and in ornamenting and furnishing them, something amazingly confirmed on our visit the next day to the fantastic Egyptian Museum (more on that in another blog).
The pharoahs depended on the labor of thousands of slaves, who died at the rate of 8-10 a day sometimes, from exhaustion, overwork, the heat. Some scholars think these mammouth triangles reflect Egyptians' belief in the origins of life and pay homage to Re, the sun god and source of life. It's ironic, to a modern visitor, that these monuments to life forces caused the death of so many.
Yet they stand the test of time, as physical tombstones, perhaps because the great Sphinx is still guarding them. The Sphinx, an ancient monument itself, was carved from the bedrock of the Gize plateau. It has the body of a lion, with the head of a king, or a god, and it still symbolizes the strength and grandeur of ancient Egypt. It's been buried in sand, uncovered, recovered, and somewhat battered, but no one questions its stately purpose to this day.
The pyramids at Gize look like they are built from thousands of bricks, but up close you see they are made of humongous layered blocks of limestone and granite, some weighing over 2.5 tons according to scholars. Imagine carrying them from the Nile to the site, and hauling them one on top of the other, in perfect synchronicity, up to a fine point touching the sky. The gigantic blocks of granite and limestone were then covered in alabaster, now mostly stripped off, both by the forces of nature over the years, and also by the people who built the mosques of Cairo. Alabaster: white, smooth marble, strong and elegant. I imagine how the pyramids must have looked then, gleaming in brilliant white in the desert sun against a clear blue sky or against a starry black night sky.
To this day, the Pyramids fascinate and entice you. I couldn't believe I was actually seeing them with my own eyes! I am still dazzled. No matter the crowds, the sights of camels and horses and little horse-drawn carriages, the thousands of people exclaiming and taking photos, the equal number of people offering their services as guides. It seemed like a dream to be in the presence of the Pyramids of Gize.
While in this kind of shock of belief we picked up AD, or rather he picked us up, and served as our calm and knowledgeable guide as we strolled the grounds together for a few hours. He was a supreme publicist and PR man, making us feel comfortable, being helpful. He eventually convinced us to try a horse and buggy, perhaps aware of our aging resources, as it were, but he said it was for the purpose of getting even closer to the pyramids. Now Jud and I think the main reason was to help a friend, but we did get closer to the pyramids..
We also went to the necropolis, the funeral grounds, at Sakkarah, which is supposedly even larger and more important, representing several dynasties of ancient Egypt. We were a bit wiped out, after a day of travel, then being immersed in Cairo, then seeing the first pyramids,
so we didn't get close, but accepted our taxi driver's advice to drive around the grounds. In some ways the sense of time passing was even more evident here. The huge "step pyramid" of the pharoah Zoser was magnificent and grand, but looked more fragile, the stone crumbling in places from the elements of nature and time. We didn't stay long, just long enough to reinforce a sense of antiquity and grandiose hopes for eternity. A nearby palm forest swayed in the breeze, farmers tended fields, daily life went on, but the pyramids were immovable against the hazy gauze of a slowly setting sun filtering its rays around the sacred site. I fell asleep on the way back to the hostel, the blare of horns and the weaving of the cab receding into a pastel dream.
But while in the presence of the pyramids, a forceful magnetic energy engulfed me, the energy of ancient times and beliefs, the magnetism of omniscient god-men intent on preserving their lives into death. These ancient structures drew you in.
Cairo. The pyramids. Still standing on the horizon of time. The pyramids firm on shifting sands. The city of Cairo pulsating with a tremendous life force, never still, never silent, always moving. The solidity of antiquity, the fluidity of modernism. The entwined forces of the pyramids, pointing to the heavens, forever gazing into eternity, and the vibrantly alive veins and arteries of a city bursting with restless energy, Islamic beauty, and constantly changing urbanity.
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